The Black Wing Shoes Experience

Introduction

Lately, my present shoes have worn out before my anticipated expiry. The early sign was an outsole crack which quickly escalated to disintegration—it was like a Chocolate Chip cookie crumbling down in front of my eyes! It was very frustrating since the shoes were quite expensive.

I have two options: shoe repair or purchase a new one. The shoes can be resoled but the cost can already buy me a brand-new shoes (synthetic leather though). A new pair from my regular brand on the other hand is way too pricey. In the end, neither of the two choices solves my troubles.

In the midst of another headache, an idea came in mind: Why not try custom-made shoes instead? My father owns a made-to-measure leather boots which is still in great condition for almost twenty years. If the same shoe company still exists and the price is fair, this is a sensible plan!

Sad to say that most of the known local custom-made shoemakers are either closed or difficult to locate. Marikina was once the center of a thriving Philippine shoe industry. During its heyday, people patronize Marikina-made shoes because of its quality, durability (which many can attest) and reasonable cost. The eventual surge of cheap imported goods and brand mentality led to the slow demise of the local shoe business.

Good thing that there’s a growing demand for homegrown classic shoes by discerning consumers who wants to stand out from the crowd! Some entrepreneurs saw the market and took the opportunity to revive Marikina’s shoe making heritage—one of them is Black Wing Shoes!

The Company

Black Wing Shoes (BWS for short) is a Marikina-based shoe company that makes made-to-measure formal and casual shoes done the Marikina way (hooray)! They are located at E. Rodriguez Avenue, Marikina.

Black Wing Shoes logo
(image from BWS Facebook page)

They started as a business model experiment by the owner Buddy Tan who is also from Marikina. The experiment was meant to establish a solid business model where small-time and aspiring shoemakers can follow. BWS has tested several RTW schemes from sandals to casual shoes. They ultimately settled on custom-made shoes but still evolving to keep up with the changing times.

The Process

The shoe making process starts by taking your feet measurement which is by appointment basis for first time clients. After the procedure, I discovered that my left foot is longer and wider than the other. Now I know why some of my shoes are uncomfortable since I always use my right foot as reference (silly me lol).

The next stage is the shoe parameters: toe shape, shoe contour, shoe length, leather material & color, welt and outsole material are the basics. The toe shape and contour is based on a selection of lasts which will be modified based on your feet measurements. BWS use Bulacan Pullside leather for formal shoes. For casual shoes, they also offer Suede and Nubuck leather. They have a variety of colors from Black, Oxblood, shades of Brown and interesting dark toned colors such as Green and Blue which only shows under good light. For a unique leather look you may also inquire BWS’ shoe patina and coloring options.

The outsole can be either made of traditional leather or faux leather rubber. For formal shoes, they use old airplane tires for the outsole heel. If you prefer adventure-proof shoes, BWS also has outsoles made from old bike tires. My pair has an additional Topy rubber outsole for increased durability at no extra cost.

One of BWS's design using old tires for outsole.
(image from BWS Facebook page)

The last but important process is the shoe style. They have a variety of designs such as Oxford, Derby, Blucher, Monk Strap, Loafer, Chukka, Chelsea, with & without brogue and anything in between. You may either search via BWS’ Facebook photo gallery or simply draw your dream shoes like I did. The combination of options is almost endless—as long as they can do it they will do it! A pair of formal shoes starts at Php 4,500 which is decently priced.

One of the intricate shoes that BWS has made in my opinion.
(image from BWS Facebook page)

BWS also has matching belt & shoes (great for groom-to-be) and after sales services such as leather reconditioning, resoling, and repair.

Shoes Review

My final shoe design is a Black Captoe Oxford, heel counter flush to the topline (my original plan was below the topline but altered as advised for heel durability), round pointed toe, regular contour at the vamp, minimal brogue at the facing, stitched welt, Blake Rapid stitch (which is standard) faux leather rubber with additional Topy rubber outsole. My pair was scheduled to be done after a month but was extended for an additional fourteen days since my design is a new pattern.

How does the shoe fair?

Looks (10/10)

The shoes are absolutely gorgeous! They managed to accurately replicate my shoe design—very impressive! The recommended heel counter redesign in which I was skeptical blends well with the overall look.

Here it is!

A closer look!

Another angle of view!

It may sound weird but the shoes’ handmade details have a striking charm to it. We’re so acquainted with machine-made shoes we tend to ignore the fine details. In custom-made shoes, we take a pause to appreciate it as a wearable art form and awe at the shoemaker’s skill.

Workmanship (9.5/10)

The quality is top notch—the shoes have the Made in Marikina stamp all over it! The stitching is neat both inside and outside. The shoes were lasted by hand just right—no inconsistent leather thickness, shoe pattern is maintained and no to minimal brogue deformation.

The BWS staff who made my shoes. This is my first time to see
a Phillips screw in a shoe.

Inside of the shoes showing the Blake stitch.

Initial Fit and Comfort (9/10)

It fits like a glove—period! The inside is ample enough for my feet to swell and some toe splay. I can say 80-85% comfortable on the first two days of use. The lining has a smooth finish—no protruding or excess materials that may cause discomfort whatsoever.

The lining and top of insole is made of leather.
BWS's present shoes already have an insole marking.

The insole lining is glued and stitched in rubber.
The additional black rubber provides ample cushion.

The shoes are hefty but not restrictive. On the first run, the outsole is slippery on wet smooth surfaces. It was normal but the constant wear and tear will improve the traction. Every step has a familiar tick tock sound in spite of the rubber outsole (the heel does the sound upon further scrutiny). In a way, it resonates a proper and mature man shoes (it sure does).

A closer view of the outsole. Topy rubber outsole was added
since the shoes were meant for everyday abuse. 

There are truths that one must accept in owning an authentic leather shoes. It needs a break-in period so the shoes will be truly comfortable. The leather and outsole material is stiff in nature but consistent use will solve the problem. The contrast between modern formal and sports shoes are already intertwined in terms of feel and comfort, a new owner may misinterpret the initial experience. Be simply aware that the shoes won’t come across as instantly comfy the first time around.

Conclusion

Black Wing Shoes is highly recommended for people who desire a unique, dependable and all-local custom-made shoes at a competitive price! They are a testament that we don’t need to look elsewhere for great quality shoes. Who knows, your dream shoes is not a hopeless fancy after all!

This will not be my last pair!

Black Wing Shoes

Address: E. Rodriguez Avenue, Marikina

Facebook: blackwingshoesph

Instagram: @blackwingshoes

Website: www.blackwingshoes.wordpress.com

Tips

Want a pair of BWS shoes, here are some of my tips:

• Schedule an appointment during weekdays—it’s vacant most of the time. If time is of the essence, secure a slot at least two to three months before your expected date of delivery.
• Set your visit in the afternoon to let your feet swell. Moderate walking will help a lot.
• The best and cheap way to go at BWS is…
• Travel to LRT Line 2 (or Purple Line) Cubao station by any means of transportation.
• Under Cubao station, ride a jeepney with the sign Marikina Bayan. Inform the driver that your stop is at Savemore Supermarket and pay Php 12.00. On a good day, travel time will only take 15-20 minutes.
• From Savemore Supermarket (1) walk along Daang Bakal then (2) turn right to Guerilla then (3) turn left at the first corner to E. Rodriguez Avenue. You’re on the right track if the traffic direction is against you. BWS is located at the right side of the street.
• Wear your regular socks during feet measurement. Bare feet are okay if you use thin socks.
• Have at least two final shoe designs on hand during your visit to make things quick and decisive.
• Be open to suggestions and manufacturing limitations.
• Be patient during the waiting period. Believe me, the wait is worth it!

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank all of Black Wing Shoes’ staff for doing a great job with my shoes! Looking forward for another pair in the future!

Please support the Marikina shoe industry so it can prosper again!

Please look forward for my next blog! Ikimashou!