Beyond the Misconceptions: New Ireland, PNG

Beyond the Misconceptions: New Ireland, PNG

Introduction

Hello again dear reader, I'm back for another travel blog! For the first time, I was able to travel on foreign land (due to work...as usual)! Strangely enough, it’s no ordinary foreign country. Papua New Guinea is a country unheard of on almost all aspects; limited travel publications, lesser known tourist spots—widely known for cannibal tribes, Malaria infestation, high crime rate—the list goes on!

New Ireland official flag

Read on as I share my experiences at New Ireland, PNG as I dive into the unknown and validate for myself the misconceptions of a country widely misunderstood!

Let’s start...

The Basics

Place of visit:

New Ireland, PNG

Population:

118,350 as of 2002

GMT:

+10 (2 hours ahead from PH)

How to get there:

5 hour flight from Manila, PH to Port Moresby, PNG

then 2 hour flight from Port Moresby to New Ireland

Currency Exchange Rate:

1 PGK (Papua New Guinean Kina) = 16.47 Php

or 0.37 US$ at the time of this writing

Weather:

At the time of our visit (mid April 2015), it was fairly sunny

with moderate drizzle on certain areas.

Important things to bring:

Anti-Malaria pills (ask your doctor about it)

Anti-mosquito repellent for additional protection (better to be safe than sorry)

Universal plug that supports AS-3112 outlet

Spare batteries or power bank

(power failure is prevalent throughout PNG and New Ireland)

An open mind....

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Geography

Like most of PNG's islands, New Ireland is literally an untouched area! The only developed areas are the towns (Kavieng and Namatanai in particular), plantations and small communities along Boluminski Highway and connecting roads. The remaining areas are thick forests, teeming with wild animals such as boars, snakes and giant reptiles. Some areas of Namatanai were once the stronghold of Japanese forces during WWII, chosen due to its strategic view of the Pacific. After the disposal of mines, the area is now used to grow crops by locals.

Aerial view of New Ireland.

Kavieng Airport

Welcome to Kavieng, New Ireland!

Namatanai Town just two kilometers away!

I suppose this is Namatanai's church.

The ONLY supermarket at Namatanai area!

"Like most of PNG's islands, New Ireland is literally an untouched area!"

The surrounding trees prepared us for things to come!

A narrow waterway from a mountain spring...

...that leads to a river!

An area that was once the stronghold of the Japanese during WWII.
In the past, it was full of mines (yikes). Now, the land is used by the
locals to grow crops (Cacao field as shown in this picture).

A closer look at a Cacao plant!

The second trail was easier than the first one....

Some of the notable fauna that we've seen along the second trail.

Kavieng, the Northern part of New Ireland is renowned throughout PNG as a surfing paradise. Besides Kavieng, there are few surfing spots offered by small lodges located at Namatanai. If you're not up for surfing or diving, you can simply stroll along Boluminski Highway via 4x4 or bike to view the pristine coastline of New Ireland. You may stroll along the beach side, just be sure to ask permission from the locals.

New Ireland's Southern coastline...untouched and...full of trees!

Photos showing...

...some of New Ireland's coastlines...

...shot from three different locations.

"Kavieng, the Northern part of New Ireland is renowned throughout PNG as a surfing paradise." 

A solitary mangrove area several meters from the shoreline.

Some of the creatures that inhabit the shoreline area!

Sea Cucumber

Beautiful sunset at Kavieng!

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People

New Ireland is largely composed by locals and a few Australians and Chinese who owns plantations, resorts/lodges (Australians) and dry markets (Chinese). Unlike the perception of foreigners (myself included), PNGs are surprisingly friendly and they smile a lot! I didn't feel any hostility or uneasiness with the locals. They are eager to greet people along the way—and a chat or two if it permits. There is no language barrier provided that PNGs are fluent in English. People on remote areas can be engaged in a cheerful conversation without pause (to collect his ideas before speaking it out).

Darius and his family. One of the local farmers that we met at Namatanai.
(picture c/o our officemate)

"...PNGs are surprisingly friendly and they smile a lot!"

Locals live on farming and fishing. PNGs plant Coconuts, Cocoa, Cacao (aka Sweet Potato), Spinach, Peanuts to name a few which are sold in local markets and nearby islands like Lihir (known for its Gold mine) via agents. In their leisure time, PNGs simply stay at their homes while some roam around town.

Peanut field by one of Darius' relatives!

PNGs who live in town have a laid back sort-of attitude. This is demonstrated in their pace of movement and how they talk. Locals move about like they have all the time and they speak quite mellow. I guess this is normal given that all of the laborious work is done before daybreak. Some foreign cultures wherein unending work is the norm somehow view it as laziness or the absence of livelihood.

Airport crew at Rabaul Airport.

"Locals move about like they have all the time...."

Our driver George holding the main ingredients for Betel Nut.
From Left to Right: Lime, Green Mustard and Betel Nut

One of their favorite pastimes is chewing Betel Nut (the equivalent of Nga-Nga of the Philippines); a combination of Lime (made from sea shells), Green Mustard and Betel Nut (of course). When spit out, Betel Nut is Maroon in colour with a paint consistency—it stains like paint too. Our driver George told us that Betel Nut fares better than cigarettes, but it can also cause cancer as well. 

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Transportation

Toyota Land Cruiser

One car dominates the roads of New Ireland: the Toyota Land Cruiser! It comprises almost 90% of the automobiles used for personal and rental purposes. There were barely a handful of other Japanese 4x4 vehicles from Nissan and Honda. Motorbikes were also a rare sight throughout New Ireland. As I remembered, we've only seen three bikes throughout our stay. Public transport from Kavieng to Namatanai on the other hand is taken care of by fourth generation Toyota HiAces. 

A Yellow Land Cruiser, elegantly lit by the sunset!

View of Boluniski Highway,
hours away from Kavieng.

The main provincial town of Kavieng is connected to small communities towards the Southern province of Namatanai (and beyond) via Boluminski Highway. Two thirds of the road stretch is in Asphalt while the remaining portion is unfinished; this is where the Land Cruiser shines. It's advised not to travel during night since Boluminski Highway is unlit, making travel perilous.

A portion of Boluminski Highway at Namatanai area.

"One car dominates the roads of New Ireland: the Toyota Land Cruiser!"

Typical one way steel bridge seen throughout Boluminski Highway.

PNGs drive to speeds up to 130 kph almost consistently. Whether rough or smooth road, flat or uphill climb, straight or sharp curve you name it, they would pass through it like a hot knife on butter! Luckily, our driver George is disciplined enough to slow down (a bit) when needed.

-o0o-

Food

PNG's culinary culture is Western influenced in nature. I thought that our breakfast and lunch at The Wild Orchid restaurant (Gateway Hotel, Port Moresby) doesn't reflect the overall cuisine of PNG—maybe we'll get to sample their authentic dishes later on. However, we eventually discovered that Western-style foods were the norm.

My breakfast (first plate of course)...

...and lunch at The Wild Orchid restaurant!

"PNG's culinary culture is Western influenced in nature."

A decent meal cost around PGK 30-40 (roughly Php 495-660 or US$ 12-15). Dishes are normally served with either rice or chips (aka fries) and side salad. On the good side, the foods were simply delectable; the "fish of the day" does really taste like the fish of the day! They don't skimp out on using fresh and local produce.

Beer-battered Fish

PNG’s serving size is generous! No foodie would ever feel the slightest hunger since food portions caters for Western stomachs. You call burgers here as BURGEEERRS while a battered fish is 90% fish and 10% batter. Compare that here in the Philippines where it's mainly composed of 50% batter, 10% air and a sad 40% fish—and almost 40% less in size compared to PNG's offering.

My dinner at Malagan Beach Resort...

...and Namatanai Lodge!

"the "fish of the day" does really taste like the fish of the day!"

My Fish Burger was as big as a bread & butter plate (6-7 inches)!

The caretaker of Namatanai Lodge explains that PNGs normally eat three meals a day only, the reason why they eat and serve plenty. There's an exception though during laborious work like farming or fishing.

Cold beverages as seen inside a supermarket
at Kavieng. Sadly, no local beer available.

Cold drinks are available at small supermarkets around both Kavieng and Namatanai. If you're planning to stay somewhere in-between these towns better pack up lots for hydration since any form of dry good stores are non-existent. 1.5L water costs PGK 5 (around Php 83 or US$ 1. 85) while soft drinks which is dominated by Coca-Cola products costs PGK 2 (around Php 33 or US$ 0.75).

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Places to Stay

New Ireland is famous for its surf and dive spots, so there are several hotels and lodges to choose from. One of the places where we first stayed was Malagan Beach Resort, about five minute ride from Kavieng Airport. In terms of accommodation, my first impressions were in the lines between rustic and quite shabby. The minor quibble however is compensated by a front beach view, kind and cheerful staff and plenty food servings—not to mention the sense of security thanks to a decent perimeter fence.

Malagan Beach Resort entrance.

Wood columns were carved
in traditional Malagan fashion!

Another sample of Malagan wood carving.

Hallway leading to rooms at the Left side of the main entrance.

Bar and Dining Area

Beach view inside our room.

One of the solitary residents of the resort.

Lucky for this guy, he has a mate!

Our room for two nights!

Bathroom is a bit cramped...

...but still acceptable!

Shadow, the friendly pet dog by the resort's owner!

Way down Southward to Namatanai there's Namatanai Lodge, located at the heart of the town's small commercial area. Rooms and facilities were also in the same state with their Kavieng counterpart. The ceiling fan was frankly inadequate to cool down our room (and keep the mosquitoes away) and there was only one channel for entertainment. There are window nets but some mosquitoes were still prevalent during night time—and they seem to be immune to insect repellent spray and lotion.

Our bed for the night at Namatanai Lodge.

The Bathroom was unusually very...very spacious!

Our room has two beds and an additional mattress.
There is a small CRT TV that only shows one channel.
(This was the show that we've watched that night!)

Function Room. This is where we ate dinner and breakfast the next day!

A lodge near Namatanai Town where we're supposed to stay.

The lodge is also facing the beach.
Guests can surf the small tide formations!

Overall, our experience at both Malagan Beach Resort and Namatanai Lodge was still acceptable. PNG in general is undeveloped, so it's understood that you must lower your expectations. We also don't have the time and luxury to gripe over things; we're way too tired because of work. I guess, the rural and outback-ish vibe is the charm of both Malagan Beach Resort and Namatanai Lodge. That’s why tourists (Australians in particular) still book in these places!

"...the rural and outback-ish vibe is the charm of both Malagan Beach Resort and Namatanai Lodge."

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That’s all dear reader for now! I hope that this blog will be an eye opener for everybody! For seasoned travellers out there who've never visited New Ireland, you are missing out a small portion of our diverse planet! I eagerly suggest visiting and exploring New Ireland and the rest of PNG’s islands!

Our plane ride back home!

Please look forward to another blog entry! Ikimashou!