Introduction
Lately, my present shoes have worn out before my
anticipated expiry. The early sign was an outsole crack which quickly escalated
to disintegration—it was like a Chocolate Chip cookie crumbling down in front
of my eyes! It was very frustrating since the shoes were quite expensive.
I have two options: shoe repair or purchase a new one.
The shoes can be resoled but the cost can already buy me a brand-new shoes
(synthetic leather though). A new pair from my regular brand on the other hand
is way too pricey. In the end, neither of the two choices solves my troubles.
In the midst of another headache, an idea came in mind:
Why not try custom-made shoes
instead? My father owns a made-to-measure leather boots which is still in great
condition for almost twenty years. If the same shoe company still exists and
the price is fair, this is a sensible plan!
Sad to say that most of the known local custom-made shoemakers
are either closed or difficult to locate. Marikina
was once the center of a thriving Philippine shoe industry. During its heyday, people
patronize Marikina-made shoes because of its quality, durability (which many
can attest) and reasonable cost. The eventual surge of cheap imported goods and
brand mentality led to the slow demise of the local shoe business.
Good thing that there’s a growing demand for homegrown
classic shoes by discerning consumers who wants to stand out from the crowd! Some
entrepreneurs saw the market and took the opportunity to revive Marikina’s shoe
making heritage—one of them is Black
Wing Shoes!
The Company
Black Wing Shoes (BWS for
short) is a Marikina-based shoe company that makes made-to-measure formal and
casual shoes done the Marikina way (hooray)! They are located at E. Rodriguez Avenue, Marikina.
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Black Wing Shoes logo
(image from BWS Facebook page) |
They started as a business model experiment by the
owner Buddy Tan who is also from Marikina. The experiment was meant to
establish a solid business model where small-time and aspiring shoemakers can follow.
BWS has tested several RTW schemes from sandals to casual shoes. They ultimately
settled on custom-made shoes but still evolving to keep up with the changing
times.
The Process
The shoe making process starts by taking your feet measurement which is by appointment
basis for first time clients. After the procedure, I discovered that my left foot
is longer and wider than the other. Now I know why some of my shoes are uncomfortable
since I always use my right foot as reference (silly me lol).
The next stage is the shoe parameters: toe shape, shoe contour, shoe length, leather material
& color, welt and outsole material are the basics. The toe shape and
contour is based on a selection of lasts which will be modified based on your
feet measurements. BWS use Bulacan Pullside
leather for formal shoes. For casual shoes, they also offer Suede and Nubuck leather. They have a variety of colors from Black, Oxblood, shades
of Brown and interesting dark toned colors such as Green and Blue which only
shows under good light. For a unique leather look you may also inquire BWS’ shoe
patina and coloring options.
The outsole can be either made of traditional leather or faux
leather rubber. For formal shoes, they use old airplane tires for the outsole
heel. If you prefer adventure-proof shoes, BWS also has outsoles made from old
bike tires. My pair has an additional Topy rubber outsole for increased
durability at no extra cost.
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One of BWS's design using old tires for outsole.
(image from BWS Facebook page) |
The last but important process is the shoe style. They have a variety of designs
such as Oxford, Derby, Blucher, Monk Strap, Loafer, Chukka, Chelsea, with & without brogue and anything in between. You may either search via BWS’ Facebook
photo gallery or simply draw your dream shoes like I did. The combination of
options is almost endless—as long as they can do it they will do it! A pair of
formal shoes starts at Php 4,500
which is decently priced.
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One of the intricate shoes that BWS has made in my opinion.
(image from BWS Facebook page) |
BWS also has matching belt & shoes (great for groom-to-be) and after sales
services such as leather reconditioning, resoling, and repair.
Shoes Review
My final shoe design is a Black Captoe Oxford, heel
counter flush to the topline (my original plan was below the topline but altered
as advised for heel durability), round pointed toe, regular contour at the vamp,
minimal brogue at the facing, stitched welt, Blake Rapid stitch (which is
standard) faux leather rubber with additional Topy rubber outsole. My pair was scheduled to be done after a month but was
extended for an additional fourteen days since my design is a new pattern.
How does the shoe fair?
The shoes are absolutely gorgeous! They managed to
accurately replicate my shoe design—very impressive! The recommended heel
counter redesign in which I was skeptical blends well with the overall look.
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| Here it is! |
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| A closer look! |
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| Another angle of view! |
It may sound weird but the shoes’ handmade details
have a striking charm to it. We’re so acquainted with machine-made shoes we
tend to ignore the fine details. In custom-made shoes, we take a pause to
appreciate it as a wearable art form and awe at the shoemaker’s skill.
The quality is top notch—the shoes have the Made in
Marikina stamp all over it! The stitching is neat both inside and outside. The shoes
were lasted by hand just right—no inconsistent leather thickness, shoe pattern
is maintained and no to minimal brogue deformation.
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The BWS staff who made my shoes. This is my first time to see
a Phillips screw in a shoe. |
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| Inside of the shoes showing the Blake stitch. |
Initial Fit and Comfort (9/10)
It fits like a glove—period! The inside is ample
enough for my feet to swell and some toe splay. I can say 80-85% comfortable on
the first two days of use. The lining has a smooth finish—no protruding or
excess materials that may cause discomfort whatsoever.
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The lining and top of insole is made of leather.
BWS's present shoes already have an insole marking. |
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The insole lining is glued and stitched in rubber.
The additional black rubber provides ample cushion. |
The shoes are hefty but not restrictive. On the first
run, the outsole is slippery on wet smooth surfaces. It was normal but the
constant wear and tear will improve the traction. Every step has a familiar
tick tock sound in spite of the rubber outsole (the heel does the sound upon further scrutiny). In a way, it resonates a proper
and mature man shoes (it sure does).
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A closer view of the outsole. Topy rubber outsole was added
since the shoes were meant for everyday abuse. |
There are truths that one must accept in owning an
authentic leather shoes. It needs a break-in period so the shoes will be truly
comfortable. The leather and outsole material is stiff in nature but consistent
use will solve the problem. The contrast between modern formal and sports shoes are
already intertwined in terms of feel and comfort, a new owner may misinterpret the
initial experience. Be simply aware that the shoes won’t come across as instantly
comfy the first time around.
Conclusion
Black Wing Shoes is highly recommended for people who desire a unique,
dependable and all-local custom-made shoes at a competitive price! They are a testament
that we don’t need to look elsewhere for great quality shoes. Who knows, your
dream shoes is not a hopeless fancy after all!
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| This will not be my last pair! |
Black Wing Shoes
Address: E.
Rodriguez Avenue, Marikina
Tips
Want a pair of BWS shoes, here are some of my tips:
- Schedule an appointment during weekdays—it’s vacant most of the
time. If time is of the essence, secure a slot at least two to three months
before your expected date of
delivery.
- Set your visit in the afternoon to let your feet
swell. Moderate walking will help a lot.
- The best and cheap way to go at BWS is…
- Travel to LRT Line 2 (or Purple Line) Cubao station by any means of transportation.
- Under Cubao station, ride
a jeepney with the sign Marikina
Bayan. Inform the driver that your stop is at Savemore Supermarket
and pay Php 12.00. On a good day, travel time will only take 15-20 minutes.
- From Savemore Supermarket (1) walk along
Daang Bakal then (2) turn right to Guerilla then (3) turn left at the first corner to E. Rodriguez Avenue. You’re on
the right track if the traffic direction is against you. BWS is located at
the right side of the street.
- Wear your regular socks during feet measurement. Bare feet are okay if you use thin socks.
- Have at least two final shoe designs on hand during
your visit to make things quick and decisive.
- Be open to suggestions and manufacturing
limitations.
- Be patient during the waiting period. Believe me,
the wait is worth it!
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank all of Black Wing Shoes’ staff for doing a great job with my shoes!
Looking forward for another pair in the future!
Please support the
Marikina shoe industry so it can prosper again!
Please look forward for my next blog! Ikimashou!
